Ireland

Ireland has a special place in our hearts. We visited for the first time in 2014 and longed to go back for quite some time. We spent six weeks in Ireland in the summer of 2021, renting a house in Ardgroom on the Beara Peninsula and another in Connemara near Carna. In the summer of 2022, we rented an AirBnB on Tara Hill, just outside of Gorey in County Wexford. It had views of the Irish Sea and farmland below. It was an excellent spot for day trips to Dublin, Killarney, Powerscourt, Glendalough, Wexford, and Waterford. There are also several beaches in the area if you can stand the cold Irish Sea!

There’s just something about the natural beauty of it, the rock walls, and the skinny, windy roads. The people are friendly, and if you love homemade food, chips with every meal, and lamb, well, Ireland’s the place to be!

You can’t go to Ireland and not see the Cliffs of Moher. The Cliffs of Moher are simply amazing. There’s a neat little visitor’s center built into the side of a cliff where you can learn more about the area and get a bite to eat in their snack bar. They have a really nice gift shop and other little vendors. You do have to pay for parking. There are several lookouts from which to enjoy the view! It’s a must-see, especially for a first time trip!

The Cliffs of Moher

On our first month-long Ireland adventure, we stayed at a house called Faunleave near Ardgroom. Ardgroom is a tiny little town on the Beara Peninsula. That’s the peninsula just below Dingle on the map. The view of the farmland around was amazing and there were several hidden gems around Beara Way.

Beara Peninsula

Waterford is a Viking city in the south below Cork City. It is home to Waterford Crystal. We primarily went there just to see the crystal factory and take the tour. Definitely make time for this tour! It is so incredible and you get to see them making the crystal by hand.

Waterford

We started our first trip at Powerscourt Waterfall and Powerscourt Estate. The estate features multiple gardens along a walking path. The waterfall is a short drive away. We revisited it in 2022 with friends. The gardens were just as lovely but with a more wildflower type variety and the gift shops had expanded considerably.

Powerscourt Estate

The Republic of Ireland

Kilkenny is Ireland’s ancient city. Kilkenny Castle sits in the middle surrounded by shopping, pubs, and more. Near the castle, you will find Kyteler’s Inn - the site of the first witch trial in Ireland.

Kilkenny

One of our most favorite parts of Ireland is the Dingle Peninsula on the Wild Atlantic Way. I really fell in love with the area on horseback, riding with the Dingle Stables, but the drive from Killorglin past Inch Beach and into Dingle is an amazing drive. The area has become increasingly popular though since Stars Wars was filmed on nearby Skellig Michael.

The Dingle Peninsula

The Ring of Kerry is by far the most popular drive in Ireland and for good reason. This part of the country is amazing and beautiful. It takes about 5 hours to complete the full ring.

Ring of Kerry

Located just north of Cork City, Blarney Castle is a must-see. The grounds are expansive with tons of gardens, the most interesting being The Poison Garden. As you climb to the top in tiny stairwells, you can explore the castle’s rooms, see “The Murder Hole” and finally Kiss the Blarney Stone. While it’s supposed to give you the gift of gab, it may very well help you with getting front-row parking spots. Hey, it’s just something we noticed after kissing it! We never made it there, but Blarney House is also supposed to be a worthy stop on the grounds.

Blarney Castle

Garnish Island

Glengariff is one of our favorite spots in West Cork. We really enjoy taking the Healy Pass to get there, but you can also take the Caha Pass. Once in Glengariff, we recommend eating at the food trucks in the Quill’s parking lot then taking the boat to Garnish Island. While there is a house tour, it’s a small house and not exactly interesting to kids. The gardens are expansive, however, and will easily keep you busy for the day. Stop and get a coffee to replenish your energy!

Beyond the Trees Avondale

This is really family-oriented spot in Wicklow, but still worth the visit as adults. The walk to the tower is beautiful and the tower itself is quite impressive. Pay the two euro to send the kids back down via the slide!

Wicklow Gaol

If you’re not able to get tickets to the Kilmainham Gaol, then the Wicklow Gaol is a great option for a look at Ireland’s sad past during Britain’s rule.

Giant’s Causeway is located in Northern Ireland. Northern Ireland is very different from the south. We found the people weren’t quite as warm as the people we’d become friends with in the south. But, there are many beautiful sights to see, such as Giant’s Causeway’s unique rock structures.

Giant’s Causeway

Carrick-a-Rede Rope Bridge

I found the Dark Hedges years ago on Pinterest, so when we planned our first trip, it was one place I just knew I had to get a picture of. This little section of road attracts a lot of attention and it wasn’t exactly easy to find, but it’s not far from Bushmills in Northern Ireland.

Unfortunately, it’s become quite touristy over the years due to them being on The Game of Thrones. There’s a parking lot, a cafe, and a ton of people. It’s nearly impossible to get the hauntingly eery photos you could once get due to the crowds.

The Dark Hedges

We crossed the Carrick-a-Rede Rope Bridge on first trip to Northern Ireland. Our son was about 6 or 7 on that trip and was more than willing to cross the bridge. This time, he wasn’t! It is the world’s scariest rope bridge after all. As wild as it looks, it is actually quite safe and there’s a beautiful little island on the other side.

Dunluce Castle is located just a short drive from Giant’s Causeway. There’s not a whole lot left of the castle but the map allows you to picture each part of the castle. The cliff that it sits on the edge of is quite amazing as well.

Dunluce Castle

Northern Ireland

 FAQs

  • This is the biggest question of all when it comes to travel planning for Ireland. Personally, we really enjoy driving in Ireland. Ireland is best seen on the roads and the countryside. That’s really where the magic is.

    There are two key things to know about driving in Ireland. The obvious is that they drive on the left side of the road. The other is that most of them still drive manual (standard) transmission cars. Saying that, the availability of renting an automatic improves all the time and you can request/rent one now. That takes the added stress of remembering how to drive a standard off - because it is also on the opposite side of the car and you shift with your left hand.

    If you’re not a confident driver in the US, then it’s probably not going to be great for you in Ireland either. You really have to exude some confidence on the roads. Don’t show them you’re scared! (Just kidding…sort of.) Know your limitations. Perhaps a tour is the best option if you don’t feel you’re a great driver.

    We don’t recommend a car in Dublin at all. So if you’re starting your trip there, just skip the car, take an Uber and do the city. The Hop On, Hop Off bus is great for the main sights.

    If you don’t care about the city, even better. Get a car at the airport and hightail it out of town. It’s quite easy to get out of the airport area without driving through the city, as it’s on the Northside of Dublin.

    Will you come across city driving on your journey - of course. But, Wicklow, Wexford, Waterford, Galway, etc. are much easier to drive in than Dublin. You can also find parking and just leave the car for the day while you explore on foot. Cork City is rather large and can be hectic to drive in, but again, park it and walk.

    The other consideration is the roundabouts. They are interspersed in the United States, so you’ve likely seen one or two. Just keep in mind that in Ireland, you’re going around to the left. The closer exits stay in the outer lane, the further exits get in the middle and then carefully merge out.

  • The other consideration when driving and renting a car in Ireland is car insurance coverage. It’s super expensive if you buy it through the rental service - like 50 to 80 Euro a day. The best way to get your car covered is through your credit card. Chase Sapphire and Southwest cards both offer this protection - you just have to prove it to the car rental company via a letter you can download here. Then you’ll likely only need liability coverage, which is a much cheaper 7 euro per day (estimated).

  • This question gets asked about as often as the car rental/driving questions. Honestly, the easiest way is through the ATM with your debit card. There are ATMs all over the place. Just pop it in, get a couple hundred euros and you’re good to go. Keep in mind that you can only get bills in 5 and up. All others are coins. Also, Ireland is not a third world country. They were using tap and chip credit cards before the US. You can even pay at most pubs and restaurants through your phone with tap on Apple Pay, etc. When you do use your credit card, always pay in Euros for the best conversion rate.

  • Yes! They offer a wide variety of options. Irish food, while traditionally meat and potato based, is not all meat and potatoes - although they do love to throw in a side of chips with any entree! Never thought I would appreciate a side of chips and a salad with my lasagna, but it’s actually quite nice!